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Sunset Photographyone of Mike Sugimoto's favorite photographic subjects
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Clouds are nice because they cast shadows and have variable transmission of light. Variable light transmission means you'll get different levels of brightness in a scene. Clouds are also good because they scatter light. Scattering light means strange colors. The clouds can make fascinating subjects in their own right.
If you can't put something natural between you and the sun, it's probably not a bad idea to stick a graduated ND filter over the lens and adjust your exposure accordingly. I don't own a graduated ND filter, and I'm not sure I know what I'd do with it even if I did. You can see some interesting examples of GND filter use over here, on Philip Greenspun's filter information page. This image (which is the example that Philip uses) does a good job of illustrating what you can get with a GND filter, but it is taken before sunset; personally, I'd wait about half an hour then shoot at the clouds in the upper left-hand corner of the sky.
The short answer is that you can't.
Consider the image at right, from my July 2000 trip to Seattle. After
an extended adventure at Gameworks, I'd nagged frink and
axxia to walk down with me to the the Pike Street Market, and we
wandered around for about half an hour in the streets loaded with cars
but strangely empty of people. Somewhere along the line, I spotted
this scene and knew I needed a picture of it. I never thought it would
turn out to be a good picture -- I was loaded with Fuji Velvia, rated
at ISO 40, and saddled with slow lenses -- and I included the "PUBLIC
MARKET" sign as a localizing element, but this was the first picture
I'd ever taken that I wanted to enlarge, frame, and hang on my own
wall.
The moral of this story is simple: